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  • Writer's pictureginaelisebradbury

Chanel Resort 2024 Delivers Barbiecore & Clashing Prints

The Chanel Resort '24 Collection has received varied responses; let's look at the reasons why:


This week, I've seen very mixed and dramatic reactions on Twitter to the Chanel Resort 2024 collection. Since the death of Karl Lagerfeld in 2019, the creative director of Chanel has been Virginie Viard. Karl Lagerfeld led Chanel from 1983 to 2019 and successfully redefined and modernised the company while paying homage to Coco Chanel. This creates a great challenge for Viard as she needs to maintain the success and core of the company while applying her own stamp. Whilst some looks of the latest collection have been well received, there is also clearly room for improvement when it comes to responses. To illustrate this, I've shared a selection of varying opinions from fashion Twitter accounts below (click on a tweet for link to the post):


Tweet by @lavidaprada about the Chanel Resort 2024 collection. Twitter 2023.

Tweet by @lavidaprada about the Chanel Resort 2024 collection.  Twitter 2023.

Tweet by @lavidaprada about the Chanel Resort 2024 collection.  Twitter 2023.

Tweet by @lavidaprada about the Chanel Resort 2024 collection.  Twitter 2023.

Tweet by @chaoswintour about the Chanel Resort/Cruise 2024 collection. Twitter 2023.

Tweet by @MUGLERMIND about the Chanel Resort/Cruise 2024 collection. Twitter 2023.


Tweet by @imthespecialk about their favourite looks in the Chanel Resort/Cruise 2024 collection. Twitter 2023.

Tweet by @jacquemusx about dislike for the Chanel Resort/Cruise 2024 collection. Twitter 2023.

Tweet by @itneversleepss about the Chanel Resort/Cruise 2024 collection. Twitter 2023.


The collection is eclectic and clearly has numerous influences. Inspiration has been pulled from a number of decades with 1980's style leg warmers, a gold hooded top reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent's 1992 gold hooded dress and 00's style belly chains all included.

The collection features numerous current trends with sheer materials, metallics, the hood, bold colours and barbiecore all featuring. With this inclusion of multiple trends Chanel seem to be embracing the current "widespread maximalist movement known as dopamine dressing". (Emma Childs, Marie Claire, March 2023) Whilst the mixing of influences and materials is interesting, the sheer quantity of styles within this collection creates a lack of cohesion. This explains why there are mixed Twitter responses as whilst there are desirable pieces, they are not presented to their full effect.


This Chanel Resort '24 metallic gold hooded top seems to have been influenced by a Yves Saint Laurent 1992 gold hooded dress. It is one of the more glamorous pieces in the  Chanel Resort 2024 collection.
This Chanel Resort '24 metallic gold hooded top seems to have been influenced by a Yves Saint Laurent 1992 gold hooded dress. It is one of the more glamorous pieces in the Chanel Resort 2024 collection. (vogue.com)

The iconic gold lamé hooded dress at the Yves Saint Laurent Winter 1992 show.
The iconic gold lamé hooded dress at the Yves Saint Laurent Winter 1992 show. (tatler.com)


With actress Margot Robbie, star of 'Barbie', having attended the runway show it's hardly surprising that the collection incorporates #barbiecore. Barbiecore is currently a focus within fashion as 'Barbie' is set to be released in cinemas on 21st July 2023. Chanel have opted for a pastel approach to barbiecore. The barbieesque pieces in the Chanel Resort 2024 collection are some of the most successful; the choice of pastel shades (especially for tweed/bouclé suits) aligns with Chanel's history and differentiates them from the bright pink of Valentino.


Three piece pastel pink tweed/bouclé set in typical Chanel style. Chanel Resort 2024.
This three piece pastel pink tweed/bouclé set is in typical Chanel style. (vogue.com)

Claudia Schiffer wearing a classic tweed/bouclé Chanel skirt suit in pastel pink. Chanel Spring 1992 Ready-to-Wear.
Claudia Schiffer wearing a classic tweed/bouclé Chanel skirt suit in pastel pink. Chanel Spring 1992 Ready-to-Wear. (vogue.com)

My favourite barbiecore items in the collection are these fun, colourful printed shorts and matching shirt. They have a 1990's Barbie feel to them. Chanel Resort/Cruise 2024.
My favourite barbiecore items in the collection are these fun, colourful matching printed shorts and shirt. They have a 1990's Barbie feel to them. (vogue.com)

Models wearing bright pink backstage at the Valentino A/W 2022 runway show.
Valentino's all bright pink A/W '22 collection was bold and focused. (behindtheblinds.be)


The strong traits of barbiecore didn't go unnoticed amongst Twitter users:


Tweet by @MUGLERMIND about Barbie/barbiecore the Chanel Resort/Cruise 2024 collection. Twitter 2023.

A tweet by @MIUCCLAMUSE about Margot Robbie, Barbie and the Chanel Resort/Cruise 2024 Collection. Twitter 2023.

Tweet by @imthespecialk about barbiecore theme in the Chanel Resort/Cruise 2024 collection. Twitter 2023.

Whilst the pastel pink barbie-style items are some of the more attractive in the collection, the above tweets don't convey a sense of excitement in response. It seems to have been viewed as a purely commercial move by Chanel rather than something with real inspiration and originality. The gold hooded top matched with a belly chain (shown above) is one of my favourite looks. I can't help thinking that the incorporation of more elements of old-school glamour would have elevated this collection. Also, this would have tied in strongly with the LA theme of the show. According to Fashionista, the show "presents a nostalgic, romanticized image of Los Angeles" and is "a cute escape from the cities everyday realities". (fashionista.com) However, with LA being home to Hollywood and beautiful beaches, and therefore globally associated with glamour, I think that Chanel could have taken this romantic imagery much further.


When viewing the collection for the first time, the 1980's style leg warmers are the first thing that stood out to me. With the 1980's not being a current trend, I couldn't understand why leg warmers had been included. However, the tweet by @andriana (included above) that links them to barbiecore makes perfect sense. Nevertheless, to me the black leg warmers teamed with a swimsuit (shown below) evoke 1983's 'Flash Dance' rather than a pastel and pink wearing workout Barbie. This highlights how the wide variety of colours, including black, pastels and metallics, may have contributed to a lack of clear vision.


A black swimsuit with cut-outs and silver star details paired with black leg warmers at the Chanel Resort 2024 show.
A black swimsuit with cut-outs and silver star details paired with black leg warmers at the Chanel Resort 2024 show. (vogue.com)


Another feature of the collection, that further complicates its overall impression, is the mixing of prints. Mixed prints can look creative and vibrant, but when mixing patterned fabric there is a fine line between what works and what doesn't. The tights and socks in the two images below detract from the outfits due to their dark grey shade and overly elaborate pattern. They are unnecessary and give an Autumn/Winter feel to the looks.


A purple skirt suit with grey patterned tights at the Chanel Resort 2024 show.
This outfit would have been better presented without the overly detailed, dark tights. (vogue.com)

This Chanel Resort 2024 outfit would look more attractive without the socks and without fluorescent pink accessories.
This outfit would look more attractive without the socks and with toned down accessories. (vogue.com)

A black dress with a bright print paired with a detailed jacket, black leg warmers and a green metallic bag. Chanel Resort 2024.
Again, in my opinion, the pairing of a dress with a bright pattern with a detailed jacket, leg warmers and a bright metallic bag is overly elaborate. (vogue.com)

A mint green stripe mini dress with long netting underneath at the Chanel Resort 2024 show.
I think this outfit would have looked much prettier without the netting. (vogue.com)

Dolce & Gabbana's Spring Ready-to-Wear collection offers multiple examples of how to clash prints. This swimsuit contains a selection of prints that compliment each others vibrancy.
Dolce & Gabbana's Spring Ready-to-Wear collection offers multiple examples of how to clash prints. This swimsuit contains a selection of prints that compliment each other's vibrancy. (vogue.com)


Ultimately, whilst this collection does contain appealing pieces, there is a lack of balance. Less is often more and many of the outfits would have more appeal with particular features removed. In my opinion, the barbiecore and metallic elements of the collection are the most attractive. The next Chanel Resort collection would benefit greatly by incorporating less styles and prioritizing them in order to streamline the collection as a whole. Let me know in the comments what you think of this collection and of the opinions shared. Also, what is your take on clashing prints? Thank you for reading, Gina.



Writing Sources



Article by Dhani Mau. May 10th 2023. Fashionista.



Article by Hamish Bowles. 24th November 2020. Vogue.


Non-Linked Image Sources



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